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Paris Fashion Week: Herms goes Burning Man? Nadge Vanhee-Cybulskis spring/summer 2023 collect

Earthen hues – browns, reds and yellows, colours long-associated with the heritage brand – were widely used by creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski in her utilitarian, low-key yet luxuriant universe for spring.

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It was Vanhee-Cybulski’s minimalist take on the 1980s, with the lone pulsating crystal projecting colour from the centre of the runway to establish the collection’s key idea: simplicity is powerful.

As the show took off, odd utilitarian features – such as toggles and the perplexing box platform shoes that stomped throughout – were used with subtlety but aplomb.

They brought a sporty edge to the desert backdrop that overall left the collection with an empty feel that now defines the 44-year-old French designer’s repertoire.

Tan suede tunic minidresses sported beautiful, braided leather hems – showcased without jewellery on a make-up-less model. Elsewhere, exposed midriffs latticed with cords and toggles came on otherwise unfussy slim silhouettes.

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Update: 2024-04-01